Mezcal Production, San Diego de la Mesa, Puebla

San Diego de la Mesa is a tiny pueblo in the Mexican state of Puebla; the best guess is that 1,000 people live there. Almost all of them are involved in making mezcal, the smokey liquor made from the maguey plant. It's a labor-intensive, arduous task and it's led by maestro mezcaleros--master mezcal makers who may need ten years to learn all that's necessary to make the pueblo's artisanal mezcal.

 

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Braulio Garcia Lezama
Braulio's scanning a field of maguey to determine which have piñas (the hearts used to produce mezcal) ready to harvest.
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Braulio Cutting Maguey Leaves
Braulio tried to explain how a maestro mezcalero knows that a piña's ready to be cut. After several attempts to explain, he said, "One just knows."
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Braulio and Piña
This piña weighed about 150 kgs--over 300 pounds.
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Piñas
Once harvested, the piñas are collected in a small cooking room.
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Building the Pile
The piñas are stacked around volcanic rocks that have been heating for hours.
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The Pile
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The Pile-2
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The Last Piña
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Covering With Dirt
After mats made from palms are placed over the piñas, the pile is covered with dirt.
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Carrying Log
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Finished Pile
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Top of the Pile
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Adding Water
A hole is left on top of the pile and liters of water are poured in to produce steam that will cook the piñas.
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Steam
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Young Man With Cross
After enough water has been added, a cross is placed in the hole.
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Young Man With Cross-2
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Removing the Piñas
The piñas are cooked for about four days, left to cool for a day, and then taken off the pile. The piñas will be cut up, placed in large wooden vats, along with spring water, and left to ferment.
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Braulio
Braulio is the leader of Productores Unidos de Agave Tochimiltzingo, the pueblo's co-op.
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Perlas
After the fermentation, the mezcal is distilled twice. Here, a maestro mezcalero is checking the 'perlas'--pearls--the tiny bubbles that will tell him that the mezcal is ready for bottling.
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Bottling
The final step is filling bottles with mezcal.